KADAVU

August 27, 2007

After my unexpected change I plans, I now find myself on the island of Kadavu, at an eco-resort called Matava. (Kavadu has the tiniest airport I’ve ever seen; the runaway was more like a driveway than airport runway!). Kadavu is the forth largest island of Fiji; but the population is a meager 12,000. There are approximately seventy villages spread across the island; most of which are right on the coast. As a stark contrast to Suva, the population here is 99% indigenous Fijian (the other 1% being European, not Indian).

Where I am staying is absolutely beautiful: Matava, essentially, is a traditional Fijian village. All of the housing are bures (thatch huts). The absence of electricity and cell service gives Matava a real authentic feel to it. While the place is owned by a European couple, all of the workers here are from the near by village. As you can imagine, everyone is extremely friendly, which creates a great community atmosphere.

I arrived here on Saturday, and went for a long walk with this Dutch fellow named Ger. There are only about half a dozen guests at Matava. On Sunday, I did something I never did in my life before: I went to church. Fijian church services are renown for their amazing choirs; so that was the main appeal for me. After a twenty-five minute hike along on the shore (actually at several points I was wading in the water up to my knees!) and across the forest, I arrived at the Church of the Nazarene. The church is situated on top of a very tall hill, and over looks a bay: it truly couldn’t be a more beautiful location.

The service itself was not as dazzling (but how could it be?), but it was a worthwhile experience. The first hour of the service was a Bible study, followed by an hour-and-a-half of live music. The band consisted of keys, bass, two female vocalists and, believe it or not, Western-style drums! While I did not necessarily come to Fiji to see a drum kit played in a church, it was still very enlightening to see how not only Western religion has been imported to Fiji, but also Western music. Of course, it was not as invigorating as having seen a lali (Fijian drum) used in the service, it was still neat.

The service was conducted entirely in Fijian, but the reverend would stop occasionally to explain what was Bible passage was being discussed. (I actually was given an English copy of the Bible to follow along). At the conclusion of the service, I introduced myself to the drummer, a man in his late twenties named Josaia, or Jo for short. He has been playing drums only for three months – and this was evident in his performance –, so after I told him that I have been playing for many years, he asked if I could give him a lesson. So we arranged that on Monday, I would come back to the church.

I just returned from giving my first drum lesson ever: it actually went very well. For me, it is strange that I came to Fiji to learn about drums, but instead have been in the position to teach drums. (But, as they say, it is best to learn by teaching). I taught Jo some basic beats, how to properly hold the drumsticks, arrange the kit, and other fundamental drum-knowledge. Jo mostly wanted me to just play, so he could learn by observing. Towards the end of the lesson, Pastor Aserl and his twelve-year-old son observed my teachings. He was very appreciative that I was teaching Jo. The lesson lasted for just over an hour, and afterwards they boated me back to Matava. I genuinely enjoyed teaching Jo, so much so that tomorrow (and Wednesday) I will return to conduct further lessons. I even learned how to say “drum” in Fijian – ramu.

On another research-related note, one of the coolest things about Matava is that before every meal is served, a lali is beat to let everyone know the food is ready. Too bad my mom didn’t have a lali when I was growing up!